All About Umami

Do you remember the photo of the human tongue with colored blotches representing the areas where you can ‘taste’ different flavors?

Since our high school days, there have been key developments in the world of flavor. The first is that the tongue image mentioned previously is no longer true. You can taste different senses all over the tongue, not only in specific ‘zones’ of the tongue. Another development is the growing popularity of the buzzword ‘umami’. But before we dive into the world of umami in food, wine, and what it means for your pairings, let’s go over a quick recap of the flavors.

Mushrooms, like in this mushroom pasta sauce, are often full of umami flavors.

We are all familiar with the four main tastes: sweet, sour, bitter, and salty; you can imagine firly easily the sensations of tasting sweet sugar, acidic lemon juice, bitter radishes, or salty chips. These tastes, flavors, and sensations all are ‘felt’ by our taste buds covering the tongue.

This is another reason that the old-fashioned ‘tongue map’ is outdated: we now know that each individual taste bud has receptors for each taste. Each of these tastes are represented by the mixtures of chemical compounds inside the foods & beverages as they react with our taste buds, saliva, and each other as we eat and drink.

Another fun fact is that every person will have different perception levels for these compounds; for example what may seem really sweet to one person may not be to another person, and the same goes for bitterness, acidity, saltiness, etc. These perceptions are based on culture, experiences, habits, personal likes and dislikes, and many other factors as well.

What is Umami?

Umami is considered the ‘fifth taste,’ after sweet, sour, bitter, and salty. It is often described as a sensation that is pleasant and savory yet that is distinct from sweet, sour, salty, and bitter flavors.

What is the umami flavor caused by? Umami flavors come from the presence of glutamate, an amino acid found in many foods, including meat, fish, vegetables, and dairy products that was discovered in the early 1900s by a Japanese scientist. In fact, MSG, or monosodium glutamate, is a great way to add umami flavors to a dish. This glutamate compound is responsible for the unique taste sensation of umami and is often used as a flavor enhancer in processed foods. It is also why the umami flavor is often associated with eastern asian cuisine, thanks to the pretty common use of this spice.

This umami taste is often described as a rich, savory, meaty, or broth-like flavor. It is different from other tastes in that it is not easily identifiable and can be difficult to describe. It is not really associated with a smell either, so it can be difficult to detect before actually tasting.

In summary, umami can enhance the overall flavor of food by balancing the other tastes: sweetness, sourness, saltiness, and bitterness.

Cod, like the baccalà used to make these ciccetti, is also rich in glutamate and umami flavors, especially when garnished with other umami rich foods like black olives and pickled capers.

In recent years, umami has gained attention in the culinary world, with chefs using umami-rich ingredients to enhance the flavor of their dishes. But where can we find it? The higher the presence of glutamate in a food is, the more umami flavor that will be perceptible.

It is often found in foods that are rich in protein, which is why it is commonly associated with meat and fish. However, umami can also be found in plant-based foods such as truffles, black olives, asparagus, mushrooms, tomatoes, and soy sauce. It is also common in pickled or fermented foods like kimchi or saurkraut. We see it in aged cheeses as well, with the most prevalant being an aged Parmiggiano Reggiano. Meats, like beef or bacon, tend to pick up more umami flavors the longer they are aged or cured, for example in the way that dry-aged beef has often much more depth of flavor due to its increased umami content. Lastly, a lot of seafood has high glutamate content and thus a lot of umami flavor. The prime examples are always given as seaweed and bonito flakes, but other fish like tuna, shrimp, sardines, and cod are also great examples of umami. Overall, there are so many great ways to use umami to add some extra dimension to a dish through adding strategic ingredients that are naturally rich in glutamates.

Umami Flavors in Wine

Can umami flavors be identified in wine?

Yes! Just like glutamate is found in many vegetables (especially as they become more ripe), glutamate is also naturally present in grapes. Its concentration can vary depending on the grape variety and ripeness level, but it is also formed during the winemaking process, especially during the fermentation stage, where yeast converts the grape's sugars into alcohol. The breakdown of yeast cells during fermentation releases glutamate, which contributes to the wine's overall umami taste.

This means that wines with extended contact with the lees or long yeast aging have higher probabilities of developing umami characteristics. Like with food, umami flavors present in wine can enhance the wine's flavor profile by complementing or balancing other taste components, such as acidity and bitterness. It can also provide a sense of depth and complexity to the wine's taste, making it more enjoyable and satisfying to drink. Sometimes, you can recognize ‘umami’ in wine as a more savory element that comes through. Remember, umami is a flavor, to unfortunately you won’t be able to tell if a wine has it until tasting, it cannot be smelled in the bouquet.

The pet-nat, bottle col fondo boschera is rich in umami flavors, and those flavors make it a great pairing wine.

What are some examples of umami wines?

As a first try, you can taste a pet nat wine that are bottled ‘col fondo’, or on the lees. This means they have extended lees contact, which, as mentioned above, helps propogate glutamate and umami flavors. A wine like the Lambrusco red wine Essentia which is light in tannins and low in alcohol has that previously mentioned savory element that translates well into recognizing the umami flavor. Similarly, the white Boschera, also a pet nat wine bottled col fondo, is a rare grape that when made in this style, brings forth yeasty and nutty flavors that present its savoriness as an umami touch to the palate. This savory element also means the Boschera is a great pairing wine.

Pairing Wine and Food: Umami Edition

Speaking of pairings, let’s have a look at putting together some umami rich foods and wines. Now, a bit like always when pairing wine and food, there is a certain level of personal taste involved, and especially with an enigmatic flavor like umami that is often found in conjunction with other strong flavors, may not be perfect. But, now is the time to pull out your wabi-sabi attitude and embrace perfect imperfections.

As a general ground rule super high in umami foods will make a wine seem more astrigent, or harder. It might remove some body and make it feel more bitter or acidic on the palate. So when picking a wine to pair with an umami-rich dish, now it not the time to pull out a tannin-rich big bold wine like a Barolo. We want to select a wine that will not overpower the dish, as no doubt when selecting it we wanted those umami flavors. For this reason, a lot of natural wines work well with umami dishes. Here as well, we want to look for wines like orange wines like the Saturnia Bianco, which we have previously noted is a great wine for difficult pairings. Otherwise extended lee contact wines are another avenue to look for. Try out something like the champagne method Durello, aged for 60 months on the lees for a full sparkling wine. Another category of wine that works well with umami foods are those not aged in oak, so an unoaked white wine aged for several months in contact with its lees like the buttery blend Marchese Japo could be another option for you.

As one last note, savory wines like Boschera and Essentia are great wines to pair with so many different dishes as they generally go really well with different types of flavors and foods. They are the kinds of wines that can be paired through all courses of a meal easily.

Enjoy exploring umami on your plate and in your glass!


Find Umami in Your Wine Glass with These Wines

Zanon Boschera Skin Contact Pet Nat Natural Sparkling Wine Zanon Boschera Skin Contact Pet Nat Natural Sparkling Wine
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Zanon Boschera Skin Contact Pet Nat Natural Sparkling Wine
$35.99

This is an unfiltered sparkling wine made similar to the champagne style from a rare grape called Boschera, native to Veneto, Italy where there is less than 20 acres in the world! We were the first to import this grape into the US!

Compared to the Prosecco grape (Glera), Boschera is more complex, and in fact this wine has been aged for over 3 years in the bottle on the lees.

With 2 days of skin contact giving it a deep yellow color, this native yeast fermented natural wine is then refermented with its native lees and then undisgorged, so it is unfiltered and continues to age on the lees too, allowing it to become more complex over time.

You can say it is a vintage & aged ancestral method, or Pet Nat style, also called Col Fondo in Italian since it is on its lees. It has herbal, nutty and yeasty aromas and savory taste with a long saline finish. Pairs with many foods & throughout the meal, from appetizers to main course.

Bugno Martino Essentia Pet Nat Dry Lambrusco Natural Sparkling Wine Organic Biodynamic Bugno Martino Essentia Pet Nat Dry Lambrusco Natural Sparkling Wine Organic Biodynamic
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Bugno Martino Essentia Pet Nat Dry Lambrusco Natural Sparkling Wine Organic Biodynamic
$21.99

This product is sold out and will not be restocked. A similar wine you can check out would be Frignano Sgarbato Pet Nat Uva Tosca Organic Sparkling Natural Wine.

Small production wines like this don’t stay long in stock! This product is sold out. Head back to the VeroShop to see what other small production wines we have available.

This is how Lambrusco wine was made in the ‘olden’ days in the Mantua province, refermented in the bottle, Pet Nat style. This organic wine made with 100% Lambrusco Salamino grapes has a deep rich purple color with ruby hue and a light effervescence. Its aromas are complex, with notes of cherry, cinnamon, milk chocolate and almond. It has a pleasant freshness, savoury taste and light tannins. Being on the lees and on the lees, aka ‘Col Fondo’, it lends itself well to aging with its aromas and taste evolving over time. Low in alcohol too!

Or Try Pairing These Wines with Umami Dishes

Sandro de Bruno Durello Metodo Classico Monti Lessini 60 Months Extra Brut Sparkling Wine Sandro de Bruno Durello Metodo Classico Monti Lessini 60 Months Extra Brut Sparkling Wine
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Sandro de Bruno Durello Metodo Classico Monti Lessini 60 Months Extra Brut Sparkling Wine
$51.99

This Extra Brut Champagne style sparkling wine captivates the senses with complex flavors of lemons, delicate caramel, and underlying notes of apple, stone, and citrus pith.

It is a full-bodied sparkling wine, with a deep golden color and a marked minerality of flint and sapidity. The thick-skinned Durella grape thrives with long aging, and this wine’s 60-month on the lees aging delivers a fine, persistent perlage and a beautifully creamy texture on the palate.

It is markedly more intense than its 36 month aged counterpart, but less so than the 100 month aged counterpart, cutting a nice middle road between the two. You can try all three of these wines for yourself in the Durello Flight Set!

Tastes Like: Lemon cake and lemon pith

Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Sustainable Winery | Volcanic Soil | Bottle Fermented | Champagne Style

Fun Facts: - As noted by Kerin O'Keefe of Wine Enthusiast for a past vintage, this wine presents a "smooth dry and delicious" profile with a bright acidity, resulting in a persistent and evolving experience with every sip.

- Crafted by the winemaker of Sandro de Bruno on high-altitude volcanic soils, near the romantic city of Verona.

Quercia Scarlatta Marchese Japo White Wine Blend Natural Organic Biodynamic Quercia Scarlatta Marchese Japo White Wine Blend Natural Organic Biodynamic
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Quercia Scarlatta Marchese Japo White Wine Blend Natural Organic Biodynamic
$26.99

This natural wine is delicious fruit-forward organic vegan white wine, a blend of hard-to-find native varieties from the province of Macerata in Le Marche, Italy, a hilly area just to the east of Tuscany not far from the Adriatic Sea, has it all, great nose, taste, texture and structure. While it is unoaked, it was on the lees for 6 months with weekly battonage, contributing to its complexity of aromas, ranging from melon to saffron, and intensity of flavors. Made with indigenous varieties from Le Marche, Maceratino (also called Ribona) and Incrocio Bruni 54, it is a testament to Le Marche white wines.

Quercia Scarlatta follows a minimal intervention approach to vegan winemaking, using native yeast fermentation in their wines like this Marchese Japo.

La Maliosa Saturnalia Bianco Tuscan Natural Orange Wine La Maliosa Saturnalia Bianco Tuscan Natural Orange Wine
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La Maliosa Saturnalia Bianco Tuscan Natural Orange Wine
$35.99

Woman made Saturnalia Bianco, on VinePair’s list of Top 15 Best Orange Wines, is an award winning, unfiltered and delicious skin contact orange wine made from old vine procanico & trebbiano grapes cultivated in volcanic soil.

This natural wine is made from the patented Metodo Corino, based on regenerative farming principles. Nothing is added but grapes! Made with unpressed, free run juice with native yeast fermentation. A two week maceration imparts a dark amber color. Aged only in stainless steel tanks, it has aromas of candied fruit, dried apricot and ginger.

It has pleasant acidity and tannins, and is balanced with a long finish. A pretty deep orange color, it is a great wine for difficult food pairings, it pairs with almost any dish.

Tastes Like: Candied Orange Peels

Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Regenerative Agriculture | Sustainable Winery | Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Vegan | No additives (ie non sulphites added) | Unfiltered | Organic | Metodo Corino | Natural Wine

Fun Facts: - The natural farming method that produced this wine, the metodo corino, is actually patented by La Maliosa woman winemaker Antonella Manuli after she helped to develop it with natural wine legend Lorenzo Corino of Case Corini.

- Named in honor of the Roman festival in December which took place near the winery, La Maliosa, this wine was once called Saturnia Bianco.

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