'Tis the Season for Mushroom Hunting
Porcini mushrooms freshly hunted. Photo courtesy of Trattoria Risorgimento in Treiso, Italy.
In the Northwestern part of Italy’s upper boot, is the region known as Piedmont. Most have heard of Piedmont thanks to its most famous exports: white truffle and amazing Italian wine from the Langhe Italy. However, mixed in with the historic culinary traditions of the region, is a practice hidden in the forest floors of Piedmont: mushroom foraging and truffle hunting.
Basics of Mushroom Hunting in Piedmont
In Piedmont, mushrooms are usually harvested starting in the early fall around September. For reference, the famous white truffle of the area is allowed to be hunted starting on September 21st. While mushrooms themselves, are allowed to be foraged at any point (as long as one has bought the official license), avid hunters first start to see them crop up as the temperature begins to drop and the first fall rains happen. This is usually when the famous Piedmont fog, or nebbia for which the local nebbiolo grape that makes Barolo is named, begins to creep in sometimes.
A galletto mushroom
It is at this point that in the mountainous and foresty areas of Cuneo, also extended throughout the Alta Langa in Piedmont, hunters begin going out looking for mushrooms. Some can be found in the more shaded low hills of the Langhe as well, but those mushrooms are more rare to find. In Piedmont, there are a variety of mushroom types that can be foraged, with some mushroom names being more familiar than others. While certain mushrooms like morels can also be found in the mid-western United States (VeroChef Jacqueline Mitchell remembers well her mother filling bathtubs with morel mushrooms while the family lived in Chicago), others such as the Caesar’s mushroom, or ovuli, can generally be found only in Europe. A unique and beautiful mushroom, the name, ovuli, is derived from uova, or egg, since when the mushroom is young it is completely round and white and with a hidden orange center, like an egg. As the mushroom matures, the orange center pops out and splits the white for a beautiful effect. Other famous mushroom names to be found in Piedmont are oyster mushrooms, and the similar but more brightly colored mushrooms chanterelle that in Italian are known as galinacci or galliture in local dialect. Lastly, some of the most prized and easy, and safest, to find are the Porcini mushrooms, called bulé in the Piedmontese dialect.
Barolo winemaker Aldo Clerico getting his truffle hunting walking stick out to the excitment of his truffle dog.
With all this variety and opportunity, it is no wonder that mushroom foraging is a popular hobby for many winemakers and farmers, such as Barolo winemaker Aldo Clerico, who loves to go out hunting especially white and black truffles with his trusty dog. In fact, all it takes is for Aldo to get his walking stick and boots and his four legged friend starts to bark and jump excitedly in anticipation for a forest jaunt hunting for the smelly treasures.
Safety First
As common sense might dictate, mushroom foraging without proper knowledge can be dangerous. Mushrooms types can range from an edible mushroom, to food poisoning mushrooms, to outright toxic and fatal. For this reason, it is crucial to take every precaution, check, and advice before consuming anything you have found. This might be something as simple as going out with an experienced mushroom hunter, or as is possible in Italy and Piedmont, taking your mushrooms into a certified ‘checker’ who will undergo the mushroom identification for you, guaranteeing the edibility and safety.
It is important to learn carefully each type of edible mushroom to your area, as well as the ‘false’ mushrooms that can appear like the safe ones, but thanks to a small difference inherent to each are recognizable to the trained eye as poisonous. Unless you know an experienced and trusted mushroom forager, or have access to a legal checking facility, it is best to err on the side of caution and stretch your woodland foraging legs with less finicky plants such as those in our foraging glossary guide.
Truffles vs Mushrooms
As you may remember from our previous article, Piedmont and the Langhe are famous for a very specific funghi: the White Truffle of Alba. One of the elite travel experiences that Americans seek out is truffle hunting in Italy during truffle season, which, by the way, is just starting, officially on Sept 21st!
Aldo Clerico’s father enjoying a white truffle they hunted for.
But what is the difference between a truffle and a mushroom? There are two main differences, besides the obvious economic value disconnect, they differ on a biological and a legal level. Biologically, truffles and mushrooms differ in the locations they can be found: truffles grow below ground and mushrooms above. For this reason, truffles require a dog to hunt, where mushrooms can be foraged with the naked eye. Legally, truffles require much more leg work. While to legally hunt for mushrooms in Piedmont, one must simply buy the permit, but with truffles you need an additional exam to get a special license for truffle hunting.
Words of Wisdom from a Mushroom Forager
VeroChef Jacqueline recently had the opportunity to share a quick conversation with mushroom forager Agostino Casetta of Treiso, Italy. A winemaker and farmer by trade, he also enjoys hunting for mushrooms in his spare time. Besides explaining the logistics of mushroom foraging with Jacqueline, he also shared his two tantamount rules: Safety and Respect. He was adamant that safety was paramount: only pick what you are 100% sure of; 99% is not enough certainty and can be dangerous. Agostino says he pretty much sticks with porcini mushrooms, as those are the ones he is the most comfortable identifying.
One thing Agostino wanted to impress upon us more than anything was to Respect the Forest. He said too many novice mushroom hunters dig, unearth and destroy the habitat of the mushrooms, making it almost impossible for them to regrow. ‘Only take what you can see with the naked eye; if you have to move, dig, or search, you are ruining the forest and nature’ he said. One way to be careful when picking the mushroom is to gently pinch - twist - and pull, trying your best to leave the roots of the mushroom in the ground. While mushroom hunting may be rewarding for one’s table, it should never come at the cost of the forest habitat.
Cooking with Mushrooms
The above shown porcini mushrooms now sauteed with butter and parsley and breaded and fried.
Mushrooms are a great source of many different protiens, amino acids, fibre, vitamins and minerals, and thanks the fact that they are for a large part water based, are not calorie dense. All of this combined makes them a great addition to your table and cooking repetoir. Beside the basics, like simply and deliciously sauteeing them as a side dish, mushrooms are a versatile addition to many other base recipes. Create a sugo with them (like we did with fresh lasagnette pasta in our previously shared recipe) for a great mushroom pasta. They also go great mixed in with risottos or in stews or soups. Dip them in egg and breadcrumbs and fry them up (especially the porcini) for a classic dish that is savory, crunchy, and oh so good as well. In fact, mushrooms are great accompianments with so many dishes as a sauteed side or a mushroom steak sauce, they are a great way to add extra umami flavors for fun pairings foods wise.
Enjoy Mushrooms Better with a Wine Pairing
The versatility of mushrooms allows for magic pairings with wine, as we discussed in our article about umami. Every different way you tweak a mushroom dish or a dish with mushrooms opens the possibility for a new angle and new food and wine pairing! Especially with a natural wine and mushroom dish, earthy treasures unite, creating a delightful culinary combo.
Freshly harvested Porcini, ready to be cleanred and cooked.
This is where fellow truffle hunter Aldo Clerico can help. His biodynamic winery located in the Langhe winemaking area of Piedmont and he specializes in the famous Barolo wine, you could say it was in his blood to make Barolo. To pair with mushrooms, start off with his classic Barolo (a ‘blend’ of five different small vineyards within the Bricco San Pietro cru of Monforte), or move up to a more age-worthy biodynamic wine like the Serralunga d’Alba Barolo or a natural wine from one of the most exclusive crus, the Barolo Ginestra. But Aldo also makes other classic Piedmont and Langhe red natural wines, like the Dogliani (dolcetto), the Barbera d Alba, and a Langhe Nebbiolo wine.
Rely on a wine merchant like Vero to seek out some of the best wines from Piedmont from small farmer-artisans, like natural wines from small producers like Aldo Clerico. We have a wide range of Barolo wine, as well as Barbera wines, Nebbiolo and Dogliani Dolcetto red wines, all which pair great with mushroom dishes, and come from “mushroom country in Italy: Piedomont. How can you get your hands in these hidden gems?
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Enjoy experimenting with different mushroom and wine combos and let us know how they turn out!
This is one of the best Barolo wines from the Langhe in Piedmont Italy as well as a great value from one of the storied families of Barolo wineries. This Barolo red wine is the maximum expression of the nebbiolo grape from Aldo Clerico. With vineyards right next to those of Domenico Clerico Barolo vineyards, this Barolo is a good substitute for Burgundy wine.
This garnet colored artisan Barolo has red fruit, rose and spicy leather and tea leaf aromas with elegant structure, long finish leaving a silky mouthfeel. On the nose it is very intense while floral notes mix with typical vineyard scents of violets and red berries. On the palate, the violets blend with licorice flavors and noticeable tannins. A creamy texture from the oak barrels creates a pleasant mix of fresh yet complex flavors.
Tastes Like: Cherries and licorice
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Single Vineyard
Fun Facts: This is Aldo's first wine made from 5 different Barolo designated vineyards surrounding his home in Monforte d'Alba, all within the Bricco San Pietro MGA. He vinifies each vineyard and then does an assemblage, creating each vintage a unique expression of his nebbiolo vineyards. It is also made with native yeast fermentation, so can be called a natural wine.
Made with native yeast fermentation, this Barolo Serralunga is a special natural wine. Rich on the nose with dried violets typical of the nebbiolo grape, the bouquet is austere and profound with balsamic notes. Once sipped, the earthy texture is out of this world, which marries pleasantly with the structure, fruit and spice of this elegant red. Well accented tannins are soft and decanting is strongly recommended.
Tastes Like: Earthy Spices
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Single Vineyard
Fun Facts: This is a single vineyard Barolo from the Serralunga d'Alba village, known to produce the most age worthy Barolos.
Made from the sought-after Ginestra Barolo Cru, this single vineyard wine epitomizes the greatness of the nebbiolo grape from the Barolo wine region, in terms of structure, age-worthiness and fruit expression. The native yeast fermentation used in making this natural wine also helps bring out the special and sought after terroir of the Ginestra cru.
An intense garnet color, on the nose this Barolo tends towards red fruits, with a touch of balsamic notes. As it opens on the palate the elegant tannins harmonize with the acidity for an overall richness that creates a pleasant and enjoyable experience while sipping alone or with food.
Tastes Like: Balsamic Tabacco leaves
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Single Vineyard
Fun Facts: The Ginestra cru is very limited and only a few wineries have access to harvest from there. Aldo can thanks to his wife’s, Valentina’s, Conterno family vineyards.
Fun Facts: The hands on the bottle represent Aldo’s two daughters; for this reason he often says this is the wine closest to his heart.
Barolo is considered one of the most sought after red wines in the world. It’s made from the nebbiolo grape, which is know for having a great balance between acidity and tannins, and ages very gracefully.
This set contain a Barolo DOCG and ‘Baby Barolo’, a Langhe Nebbiolo made from Barolo vines, by Barolo area native, Aldo Clerico, in Monforte d’Alba.
Any red wine lover, especially one seeking hard-to-find treasures, would enjoy side by side to compare Aldo’s Barolo and his Baby Barolo, Langhe Nebbiolo! Barolo’s elegance, aging ability, and fullness of character all blend together to create a delicious red wine that lingers on the palate.
This special offer set has shipping included for the Continental US. Great as a gift!
Included in this box are:
Dogliani is known as the area which produces the best dolcettos in the world. This expressive structured yet easy-to-drink red wine has purple color, and floral bouquet with red plum notes. On the palate, this dolcetto opens pleasantly with notable tannins that are, however, not overpowering. It finishes with light almond notes. Coming from a single vineyard near Monchiero, this Dogliani is also make with native yeast fermentation.
It can be enjoyed just after bottling, yet it can better itself after a bit of aging in bottle.
Tastes Like: Juicy plump, plums
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Single Vineyard
Fun Facts: Originally called Dolcetto di Dogliani, local winemakers lobbied to change the denomination to simply ‘Dogliani’ to avoid the misconception that this wine was ‘little sweet’, as suggested by the translation of ‘dolcetto’ in Italian. They wanted this special dry red wine to be able to make its own name, and let its importance stand for itself.
A really good, soft and fleshy Barbera from Alba, from a single vineyard located in the Barolo designated wine region, one of the best areas for Barbera. Nice acidity and fruitiness with some spice, thanks to 14-16 month aging in new and used oak.
A very balanced and elegant wine on the nose, and a good body and structure on the palate with a pleasant and vibrant acidity. A rounded wine with fresh yet fruity notes that finish with a creamy texture thanks to the oak barrel aging.
Do you want to regularly purchase this wine? Check out the Subscribe and Save option available HERE!
Tastes Like: Pretty, ripe, dark cherries
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation | Single Vineyard
Fun Facts: With its aging, this Barbera d’Alba technically follows guidelines for a Barbera d’Alba Superiore, but winemaker Aldo Clerico decides to declassify it.
It is a wine with great structure and personality, an excellent expression of the nebbiolo vine. With a delicate floral bouquet of rose and violets, there is also a finish of licorice. Tasting it really brings out its elegance with pleasant yet decisive tannins that signal great potential for good aging.
As well, the native yeast fermentation used to make this nebbiolo natural wine lets you taste the natural terroir of the Langhe.
Tastes Like: Crunchy pink cherries
Farming & Winemaking Highlights: Biodynamic | Native Yeast Fermentation
Fun Facts: This Langhe Nebbiolo is known as a ‘Baby Barolo’, since it comes from Barolo vines, and is a great introduction to the Langhe wines, where some of the best reds in the world come from.
Tucked in the hills of Northern Italy is a land of rolling hills covered in vineyards known as the Langhe. While famous for the Italian King of red wines, Barolo, there are several other varieties that hail from the area that are just as delicious. Wines made with grapes from Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo are prized from the Langhe, and native born producer Aldo Clerico has them all in his blood. In this set, try these less famous jewels of Piedmont and the Langhe: a dolcetto from Dogliani, a Barbera d’Alba, and a Langhe Nebbiolo… all from the cream of the crop vineyards in Piedmont.
Shipping in the Continental US is also included for this set, and extends to any other products you add to your order… so this is an excellent time to add on a Barolo or two from the Langhe.
These wines were featured in a VeroTalk with winemaker Aldo Clerico and Vero Chef Jacqueline Mitchell live from Italy in an authentic Italian Trattoria! Watch this virtual food and wine pairing event HERE.
Included in this box are:
