Barolo versus Brunello: Italian Kings Go Head to Head
In the world of Italian wine, there are many greats, but two stand out as true monarchs: Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino. Often referred to as "the kings" of Italian red wine, these two are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. While they share some similarities, like both are highly-regarded Italian red wines with DOCG status, the highest level of Italian wine law, and both, coincidentally, start with the letter “B,” a closer look reveals their distinct personalities.
At Vero, we believe that the best way to understand these wines is by discovering the unique stories of the small, passionate producers who craft them. By learning about the land and the people behind the bottle, we can truly appreciate the nuanced beauty of each wine. So, let’s begin our journey of discovery and learn more about the kingdoms these two wines reign over.
The King of Piedmont: Barolo
From the rolling, mist-covered hills of the Langhe region in Piedmont, northern Italy, Barolo is a wine of power and prestige. It is crafted from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, a variety known for its high tannins and acidity, which give the wine its incredible structure and longevity. The Barolo appellation is strictly limited to 11 municipalities, with grapes and winemaking facilities required to be within these geographical confines.
The Nebbiolo grape takes its name from the word "nebbia," or fog, which frequently blankets the vineyards in the autumn. This unique climate, combined with the region’s diverse terroir, is what gives Barolo its complexity. The soil in the Barolo region is a mix of limestone and sandstone, with different concentrations in the various sub-regions. The chalky, limestone-rich soils of the eastern part of the region, like in the commune of Serralunga, tend to produce wines with richer tannins and a greater capacity for aging. In contrast, the younger, more clay-based soils of the western part of the region, such as around La Morra, create wines that can be enjoyed at a younger age.
Barolo is required to age for a minimum of three years, with at least 18 months spent in oak barrels. The result is typically a wine with a beautiful bouquet of flavors and aromas, often described as sour cherry, rose, tea leaf, and violet, with additional notes of leather and licorice developing as the wine ages.
Aldo Clerico’s Barolo vineyards in the Langhe.
About the Barolo We Tasted
One producer who turly embodies the authentic spirit of Barolo is Aldo Clerico, a third-generation grape grower from Monforte d’Alba. After a career in accounting, Aldo returned to his roots to continue his family's legacy. While he makes three Barolos from his Langhe vineyards, today we look at his “classic” Barolo, a masterful blend of grapes from five vineyards within the prestigious Bricco San Pietro MGA. It is a biodynamic wine with a beautiful, velvety texture, and it is a perfect representation of a classic, well-made Barolo. Of course, you can always repeat this trial yourself using some of Aldo’s single vineyard Barolos, like the Barolo Serralunga d’Alba or his Barolo Ginestra.
So this classic Barolo we tasted for this Barolo vs Brunello test… what does it taste like? Well, this Barolo is a true expression of the nebbiolo grape, showcasing that aforementioned artistry of Aldo Clerico in blending the different vineyards together to create one harmonious product. On the palate, this wine offers a beautiful mix of sour cherry and licorice flavors, which are met by the grape's elegant tannins and lead to a long, memorable finish. The tannins are still present, giving definition to the nebbiolo, but softened thanks to the age, giving a pleasant extra dimension to the wine. The rich flavors are first hinted at on the nose, which is intense with classic aromas of violets and rose. The wine itself reveals a beautiful, classic garnet color.
The King of Tuscany: Brunello di Montalcino
From a small, picturesque hilltop town in Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino is a wine of grace and elegance. It is made exclusively from the sangiovese grape. The name "Brunello" once referred to a specific clone of sangiovese, which was locally known as "the little dark" due to the grape's dark skin. The wine can only be made from grapes grown on the slopes surrounding the town of Montalcino, which is situated just south of the famous city of Siena.
Brunello is a wine with a rich history. While winemaking has been a tradition in Montalcino for a very long time, the modern history of Brunello began in the mid-19th century when Clemente Santi was the first to make a wine exclusively from the sangiovese grape. This bold move paved the way for Brunello to become one of the most celebrated wines in the world. It was also one of the first Italian wines to be awarded DOCG status in 1980, actually, along with Barolo. In fact, the wines were among a total of four Italian wines to be given the first DOCG statuses that year.
One of the key differences between Brunello and Barolo, are their aging requirements. Brunello must age for a minimum of five years before release, with at least two of those years spent in wood barrels. This extended aging gives Brunello its characteristic complexity and depth. The wine typically presents a beautiful ruby color with a garnet rim and offers a palate of ripe red fruits, like cherry and plum, with earthy notes of leather, tobacco, and forest floor.
A laden vine from the vineyards of Canalino with sangiovese grapes.
About the Brunello We Tasted
Now… about the Brunello di Montalicino we tasted for this experiment. The spirit of family tradition and authentic winemaking is beautifully captured by the small, family-run Canalino winery. Located just outside the gates of Montalcino, winemaker Alberto Pagliantini uses natural and organic farming methods, and the winery focuses on using four specially selected Sangiovese clones that best represent the Montalcino hills. His Brunello, which he only makes in the best years, is a true expression of the Tuscan terroir and a testament to his passion for the Sangiovese grape. The taste? On the palate, the wine offers an elegant mix of flavors reminiscent of stewed cherries and ripe red fruits; we also tasted a distinct flavor like a red jolly rancher. A fantastic freshness and age-worthy tannins give the wine its superb structure and complexity. These beautiful flavors are first hinted at on the nose, which is an intense potpourri of mature fruit and spice, with distinct notes of prune, menthol, and leather. The wine reveals a gorgeous ruby color with a classic garnet outline.
Head to Head: Barolo vs Brunello
Now that we have a bit more context… let’s get into our compare and contrasting! While both Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino are considered kings of Italian wine, they are each unique in their own right, and a closer look at their origins and characteristics reveals their distinct and beautiful personalities. Their primary differences begin with geography: Barolo hails from the cool, northern region of the Langhe in Piedmont, while Brunello comes from the warm, sun-drenched hills of Tuscany.
The most significant distinction between the two lies in the grape variety used, which is the ultimate source of their unique character. Nebbiolo, as we mentioned, is known for its high tannin and acidity, giving the wine a powerful structure and a bouquet of red fruit, floral, and spicy notes. Sangiovese, as mentioned, tends to produce a wine that is more elegant and fruit-forward, with richer, darker fruit notes and earthy undertones.
These different grapes, along with different specific winemaking regulations, lead to unique aging processes. So we can compare Barolo’s minimum aging requirement of three years, with at least 18 months in oak barrels, which helps to soften its assertive tannin. Brunello, on the other hand, ages for a five years, of which, two years are in wood. This extra extended aging is also a key difference. It can allow Brunello a bit more graceful evolution, meaning it is difficult to compare wines of the same vintage; one will always have a bit more oak aging, or more bottle aging. This will cause different tertiary aromas and flavors (the ones that predominantly come from aging) to develop in each wine. Brunello might come out with more earthy flavors as it softens and integrates, like forest floor and leather. Barolo, on the other hand, while still a wine that can age for decades, can be more approachable in its youth, needing more time spent in the bottle before its tertiary flavors of truffle, licorice, and tobacco come out.
These differences culminate in very unique flavor and aroma profiles, meaning that a lot of times we can sort of tell the difference right out of the gate. In this tasting, published as a YouTube video on our channel, Vero collaborator and sommelier Jacqueline Mitchell was able to tell right off the bat which wine was which. Admittedly, it wasn’t a blind tasting, but she still believed that if it had been a blind tasting, she might have been able to distinguish which was the Brunello and which was the Barolo.
The Barolo greeted her with notes of truffle, mushrooms, sour cherry and dried rose petals. Overall, she felt it was complex, yet still had a surprising fruity profile to it. The tertiary flavors of truffle and mushroom and licorice played second fiddle to the cherries. And the Brunello she felt more cooked fruit, like stewed cherries and loved the cherry jolly rancher note! The earthiness of sangiovese came through, and she could definitely feel the sustained aging in the way it was softer, more velvety and the way it coated her mouth.
In short: she felt fresher fruits in the Barolo and more cooked, aged fruits in the Brunello. As well, she could feel the difference in aging with the Brunello being softer and more evolved, as would be expected.
Ultimately, producers like Aldo Clerico of the Langhe and Canalino of Montalcino perfectly capture the spirit of their respective regions, offering a direct path to understanding the character of each wine. The discovery of their unique styles is what makes tasting these two kings so rewarding.
Learn Through Tasting
Ultimately, the choice between Barolo and Brunello comes down to personal preference. If you prefer a powerful, structured, and age-worthy wine with a complex bouquet, then Barolo is the king for you. If you are seeking a wine that is elegant, fruit-forward, and earthy with a softer more velvet texture, then Brunello is your monarch.
The beautiful thing about wine is that there is no right or wrong answer. We encourage you to continue your own personal journey of discovery by tasting different Barolos and Brunellos and finding the uniqueness in each one. For those of you that know our curation style, you know that we love to really dive into the nitty gritty of the wine world. And you can too, by trying a selection of different wines and different winegrowers from our portfolio. We sell to both businesses and consumers across the US:
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