Love Letter to Emilia Romagna
Vineyard property in Romagna, split in half by flood damage this past week.
Emilia Romagna is an overlooked tourist destination. When tourists go on their ‘inaugural tour’ of Italy, they typically hit the main tourist cities, like Rome, Florence, Venice. Little do they know that they pass right through Bologna, the hub of the spoke of North-Central Italy, as they go between Florence and Venice. Yet, it is a region that has left its mark on the culinary world and other diverse areas, from flashy race cars to the more banal, like packaging machines, not mention there’s a ton of history across the region.
This region is “in the news” this past week due to catastrophic floods and rainfall that hit the region hard. Stories are still coming out of people, animals, farms, towns and livelihoods impacted with more damage being reported, while it is still continuing to rain. Let’s learn more about this lesser known region of Italy.
Emilia Romagna’s Backstory
Italy’s history as a country is still pretty new compared to the USA. It’s unification happened only in the mid 1800’s. After which, Italy was divided into regions. Emilia Romagna is a rectangular-shaped region which borders the Lombardy region (think Milan) to the west, the Adriatic Sea to the east, Tuscany to the south and Veneto (think Venice) to the north.
The creation of the Emilia Romagna region was a compromise. It is made up of 2 different “sub cultures” of Italians:
Googling Emilia Romagna this week shows where the worst flooding has taken place so far.
The Emiliani who are to the west, having Bologna, which has the oldest university in the world, as the main city, are known to be more reserved and intellectually minded city folk;
the Romagnoli to the east, with no main city as a focal point but instead smaller cities, are considered more country folk with a strong identity that unites them. The name Romagna derives from its significance in Roman history, having had the Roman Empire seated in Romagna for a period of time. (For more on Romagna check out this article.)
Despite the different nuances of the personalities and history of the Emiliani and Romagnoli, they are blessed with lots of agriculture and food production, making them the “heartland” of Italy with Bologna considered the food capital of Italy. What historically unites the Emiliani and Romagnoli is the old Roman road “via Emilia” that passes through the region from east to west and is still a main thoroughfare across Emilia-Romagna. Also, one of our favorite figures in Italian history is the “badass” medieval woman ruler, Matilde di Canossa, known by us Anglo-Saxon folks as Matilda of Tuscany, which, if you read our blog, will know by now that she has had a big influence on Emilia Romagna, even to this day. (By the way, if you like reading about badass women in history, also read up on Galla Placidia, who was head of the Roman empire while Romagna was the seat, and she left her mark on wines from Romagna too!)
To get to know this region from an insider’s perspective, we spoke to Sheila Donohue, founder of Vero, who has been living in Emilia Romagna for over 20 years.
Vero founder, Sheila Donohue, slipping on a muddy slope while touring Tomisa’s vineyards in the Bolognese Hills.
How did an Irish American New Yorker wind up in Emilia Romagna?
“While working in the NYC area in banking and technology, I heard of a company headquartered in Bologna, Italy specialized in my former field of credit risk management. In 2001, I was invited to come to Bologna for a job interview. It was my first time to Italy. One of my first memories is walking out of the hotel on the ‘main street’ of ‘downtown’ Bologna and getting hit with an egg… It was the height of Carnevale festivities (aka Mardi Gras) and I found out the hard way that the Italians celebrate Carnevale like we do Halloween, but with more tricks than treats! Emilia Romagna, in particular, has lots of Carnevale celebrations, with parades leading up to Fat Tuesday.
That interview led to a job offer and transfer from NYC to Bologna. I’ve been there ever since.”
After 20+ years, what resonates most with you about Emilia Romagna?
This is a hard question to answer, since, despite being a New Yorker with 100% Irish blood, my DNA has changed since living in Bologna. I’m now spending most of my time in the US, which is where I am now, running Vero. Being across the ocean and hearing of the disasters that took place this week in Emilia Romagna broke my heart.
One of thousands of flooded fields in Emilia Romagna this week.
What you hear most about Emilia Romagna is its food. I remember right when I was leaving NYC for Bologna a former colleague whose sister lives in Italy telling me that it is the culinary capital of Italy. But that is just scratching the surface.”
(We’ve already published numerous authentic recipes from Emilia Romanga, like this one of passatelli pasta recipe, this one with Sheila’s Bolognese mother-in-law’s broth recipe, and these from Romagnolo Chef Riccardo: the original egg’s benedict recipe, a tasty cheese fondue, a healthy cheese and apricot jam snack, and another healthy vegetable snack, pinzimonio. We’ve also done several VeroTalks live from Emilia Romagna, like this visit with the Braschi Boys in Romagna and this one from Sheila’s husband’s bakery in Bologna. Check out Sheila making her mother-in-law’s broth at her home in Bologna. )
“Initially, when I moved to Bologna, I wanted to travel to Rome, Venice, Florence and I pretty much ignored Emilia Romagna. Then, slowly, I started to find out about the historic, beautiful cities and hamlets around Bologna, easy to get to, even just by train. Then I started to stay more local, learning more and appreciating the richness of culture and natural beauty around my home in Bologna. Then, once I started to discover also wineries in the area, that really got me hooked. Who knew that there would also be good wine in this foodie haven.
Destruction from a landslide on a country road in Romagna.
Having worked for a banking tech company headquartered in Bologna for 15 years, when they had visitors, they would impress them by hosting dinners in grand antique villas or hosting tours to the nearby Ferrari museums.
Instead I preferred venturing out to discover the ‘hidden corners’, like in the hills of Romagna, just north of Tuscany, where Braschi has their winery. I discovered small and isolated towns with gorgeous super old churches which were on ancient pilgrimage routes, and also met the people that live in the small towns, many living off the land, and with modest means. Then there is a multitude of small trattorias and osterias, casual eateries serving really good ‘home cooked’ meals and local wine at very reasonable cost.
All in all, when you have a free weekend day in Emilia Romagna, the choices of what to do are endless, from history, to nature to cuisine; it’s a real life show-and-tell at your fingertips.
Last but not least are the people who have made a lasting impression on me.
I do notice differences between the Emiliani and Romagnoli. The Emiliani tend to stick close to one another, you could almost say cliquey. In fact, after living in Bologna for 4 years my first Bolognese ‘friend’ was my husband. Then, once you are friends with them they are friends for life. The Romagnoli are more extroverts, especially in a group. In fact, my brother who recently was on a trip to the Holy Land met up with a group of Italians. He was impressed by their enthusiasm and almost raucous nature for being a group on a religious pilgrimage. After he showed me a video he took of them singing, I immediately caught on that they are Romagnoli signing all together at the top of their lungs the classic ‘Romagna Mia,’ a song which gives homage to Romagna.”
What touches you the most about the recent flood disasters?
A soccer team digging out a neighbor out of the mud in this week’s floods in Romagna.
“The fabric of Emilia Romagna, especially in Romagna, are the small towns and small farms. Of course, the medieval city centers are treasure troves, but personally I prefer the quaintness and character of the countryside. I’ve heard from several friends across the region these past days. Many are trapped, since landslides have blocked roads, like plant forager and vegan chef Beatrice Callia. Like the road to Marcato Saraceno to get to Braschi’s winery. Fields are flooded and properties divided by deep crevices. Endless houses and apartment buildings’ first floors have furniture floating in them. I heard yesterday of my friend’s roof that caved in. I heard from a wine producer who was trying to get her horses and other animals on her farm saved from the raging floods.
The stories I’ve read of people dying in the floods are primarily elderly, many who still farm and are keeping a lot of these small towns alive. The community spirit is strong though, especially in Romagna, where, for example, Ida Vittoria, winery owner in Romagna, sent me this picture of her son and his soccer team digging out a neighbor’s house.
My fear is that the damaging effects of these floods are going to hurt the hidden away small towns and farms, which is what i love most about the region.”
What can you do to help?
We’ve written about the old towns, churches, Roman artifacts spewed across the pastoral landscapes of Emilia Romagna that are really special places to visit after you have “checked the boxes” on the main tourist spots of Italy. This is where you’ll find the real Italy, the cultures, traditions, personalities, not to mention fantastic food and wine, like in an off-the-beaten-track region of Emilia-Romagna. Donate today to dig out, rebuild and save the hidden corners of Emilia Romagna so they are ready for your next visit to Italy.
We have 2 estate wineries in Emilia Romagna:
Frignano in the hills of Modena, led by a Ukrainian woman
Braschi in the hills of Romagna. In fact, coincidentally, we just wrote about a white grape, Albana, in last week’s blog, talking with Braschi winery owner, Davide Castagnoli, a die-hard Romagnolo who is helping with the clean up efforts as we speak. For those of you that like discovering unknown grapes, check out Famoso from Romagna.
You can support Emilia Romagna even by just trying their wines. Like the places where they come from, also the wines are ripe for discovery. This region is mainly food dominated, but where there is good food, there is good wine! Buy the Emilia Romagna fund raiser box and we will give proceeds to the Emilia Romagna Flood Fund.
Davide Castagnoli, Braschi winery owner, helping with the flood clean up this week in Romagna.
Recently, the area of Emilia Romagna in North-Central Italy has been hit by incredible unprecedented flooding after extreme rains. Vero Founder, Sheila Donohue, calls the region’s capital, Bologna, her home, and of course we here at Vero are feeling this disaster very close to our hearts.
To help the people of Emilia Romagna recover from this disaster, with every purchase of this wine box, Vero will donate the proceeds to help with the disaster relief. With this box, you can not only know you are helping people in need in Emilia Romagna, but that you can also taste the hardwork and passion of Emilia Romagna estate wineries: Frignano from Emilia, and Braschi from Romagna.
Included in this box are:
Frignano | Sgarbato Pet Nat | Uva Tosca | Organic Sparkling Natural Wine
Proceeds donated to the Emilia Romagna Disaster Relief
With purchase of this Box all add-ons have free shipping, so keep supporting Braschi in Romagna and Frignano in Emilia by trying some of their other wines.
Taste Emilia Romagna Wines
From Women-Owned Wineries in Emilia
A wine similar to this barbera from Bologna would be the Ivaldi | Piccona Barbera d'Asti Single Vineyard Red Wine.
Small production wines like this don’t stay long in stock! This product is sold out. Head back to the VeroShop to see what other small production wines we have available.
Fermented in concrete, the beautiful fruit stands out in this pretty organic red wine from the hills just outside Bologna. A favorite wine in consumer tastings due to it color, nose, and flavor. Won the 5 grape award with the italian sommelier association.
Made from the rare Uva Tosca grape, which grows in higher altitudes in Emilia and is believed to be a descendant of Schiava Grossa, the Alto Adige red grape. Technically a rose wine, it is more like a light red, which looks and tastes like drinking cranberry juice as a sparkling wine. Refreshing and quaffable, with strawberries on the nose and a saline finish, it is great on its own or with light fare. While this grape does not impart much color, 2021 was a dry year, producing more concentrated fruit and color. It is naturally fermented and sparkling 'col fondo' ancestral, or pet nat, style wine.
This is an ancestral method Lambrusco made primarily with the Lambrusco Grasparossa grape, and with some Malbo Gentile grape, which is local to the area of Frignano in Modena. It is a lighter red ruby color, light effervescence, a nose that has red fruit with hint of orange peel. It is fresh and fruity, with plum taste, and grippy tannins and noticeable texture.
From the Hills of Romagna
Intense, inviting bouquet of lemon and candied citrus with a fresh, fruit forward, multi dimensional taste full of apricots and herbs. It finishes with a hint of sweet almonds. This white Albana, the first Italian white wine varietal to obtain the prestigious DOCG status, is a good alternative for Chardonnay-lovers. EU Certified Organic from a single vineyard.
With an inviting golden yellow color, this fresh and softly balanced sweet wine made from the historic Albana grape from the Romagna area of Italy has intriguing saffron and apricot notes. As a sommelier pointed out when tasting the wine for the first time: ‘It’s a dessert wine that is sort of a dry wine.. Wow, this whispers, not shouts!’
A rare find, this Famoso is made with fruit from the original vineyard of the Montalti farm in Monte Sasso where the Famoso di Cesena varietal was re-discovered in 2000 when two rows of old vines were found by a local farmer.
It is semi-aromatic with has aromas of lemon and a hint of flint, it has laser-like acidity, with tangy citrus fruit flavors and herbs, great texture and a lemon mineral finish. Limited production of 5000 bottles / yr
What other sommeliers are saying about this wine:
Ruth Ryberg:
“Wow is this cool! A grape I haven’t had before called Famoso! If it was a blind tasting I would’ve called out Chablis for the searing acidity and the chalky finish. Yum! The nose is all fresh picked apricot and lemon spray, with subtle hints of honeysuckle and marzipan. A zippy zesty mineral on the finish comes right back round to apricot and lemon! Lip smacking and fresh. Just perfect.
I’ve mentioned Braschi before. It’s a small, family owned winery in Emilia Romagna, and has been under the same ownership since 1949. Everything they make is outstanding! Located along the ancient Roman road - Via Romea Germanica - just north of Tuscany, Cantina Braschi is nestled in the hills of Romagna. The wines are first class from this family owned, small producer.”
A wine similar to this Monte Sasso Sangiovese is the La Maliosa Tarconte.
Small production wines like this don’t stay long in stock! This product is sold out. Head back to the VeroShop to see what other small production wines we have available.
This organic Sangiovese comes from the well-known Bertinoro vineyards in Romagna, just north of Tuscany Italy. With a dark ruby color, this easy to drink single vineyard sangiovese has floral and herbal aromas with cherry vanilla and a fruit forward cherry taste with pleasant sandy tannins and a long finish. A people-pleaser red wine.
A wine similar to this Monte Sasso Sangiovese is the Canalino Brunello di Montalcino.
Small production wines like this don’t stay long in stock! This product is sold out. Head back to the VeroShop to see what other small production wines we have available.
This wine is made from the best, hand selected grapes in the Costone vineyard located in the Bertinoro cru known for the exceptional Sangiovese wines produced in Romagna, Italy. With notes of cherry jam and red berries, it has a complex earthy, cherry taste with robust tannins and a persistent finish with hints of flint. Aged in Slavonian casks and neutral French oak barrique for 30 months before bottle aging for 6 months. Give it some time to open up and you'll love it.
From rediscovered white wine grapes thought long lost, to a sparkling pet nat Lambrusco, to a white sweet wine with a history reaching back to the Romans, these wines from Emilia Romagna are a delicious way to discover the Italian region. Shipping is also included in the Continental US for this set, and extends to any other products you add to your order… so this is an excellent time to stock up and treat yourself to something new, or replace a favorite wine!
Included in this wine gift set are: