A Vineyard, A Veto, and Vero: The Love Story Behind a Pecorino Wine
Welcome to the world of Pecorino, a white grape of profound character and ancient history. While the name might instantly bring to mind the famous (and delicious) Italian sheep's milk cheese, it is actually the name of a grape, too… save that tidbit for your next game of Jeopardy! The pecorino grape offers a white wine experience that is anything but common. In fact, it is a grape that is key to the local history as much as the history of one particular winemaking family, the Febo family, who have farmed their land in the hills of Spoltore since the 1500s, are artisans committed to expressing their region's unique terroir through their minimal intervention, regenerative, biodynamic, and vegan farming and winemaking techniques.
Meet the Grape
Pecorino is an ancient, indigenous Italian white grape native to the central Adriatic regions of Abruzzo and Le Marche. It was nearly lost to history in the 20th century, largely due to its natural low yield (at least compared to the local white star Trebbiano Abruzzese) and the challenges of managing its high-acidity, high-sugar profile. However, thanks to a handful of devoted producers, pecorino has seen a dramatic revival since the 1990s and is now a sought after grape from the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions of Italy.
The name “pecorino” literally derives from pecora, meaning sheep in Italian, hence why it shares a name with the aforementioned sheeps cheese. Its mysterious origin is linked to the historical lifeblood of Abruzzo: shepherding and sheep. There are two main theories for how the grape got its name, each with its own supporters. Ian d’Agata in Native Grapes of Italy proposes perhaps the most romantic theory, suggesting that the name comes from the flocks of sheep grazing in the mountainous, high-altitude vineyards of Abruzzo and Le Marche. It is theorized that the shepherds would snack on the Pecorino grapes (which ripen early) during their migration, and the grapes themselves were a favorite treat for the hungry sheep on their journey. This helped tie the grapes even further to the identity of the local pecore. Another theory, as put forward by AIS (the Association of Italian Sommelier) in their textbooks is that the grape is so named because of the shape of the cluster: it can resemble a sheeps head.
In either case, the pecorino vine is forever tied to the hard-working shepherds and the rugged, breathtaking landscape of Abruzzo. As detailed in our Abruzzo history article, the region's identity is shaped by the transumanza, the twice-yearly migration of shepherds and their flocks between the high mountains and the lower Adriatic plains.
The Rolland vineyard in Abruzzo, Italy.
Meet the Wine: Rolland
Pecorino wines are naturally concentrated, often high in alcohol, well-structured and famously can maintain a pleasant acidity which makes them crisp, energetic, and age-worthy. Typical tasting notes include distinct herbal flavors like thyme, sage, and mint, balanced by tropical and ripe citrus fruits, all wrapped up in a long finish. While wonderful in their own right, here at Vero, we have a special Pecorino wine that remains in our hearts. Both for how unique and representitive of its terroir it is, but also for the stories behind it.
The Story of the Rolland Vineyard
As we mentioned in our article “Discovering the History of an Italian Wine Family” all about the Febo family, the wine Rolland, is named for the grandfather, Rolando, of current generation winemakers Davide and Laura Febo. And the story of not only the inspiration for the name, but the reason behind it is a story rooted in family history, love, and a pivotal moment in the vineyard’s and family’s lives.
Rolando, and his son Paolo (Davide and Laura’s father) noticed a beautiful vineyard neighboring their existing vineyards in Spoltore. Wanting to grow their land, they Rolando and Paolo approached the vineyard owner, Claudio, to buy the land. Claudio took offense, refused their offer and the men parted ways in a not terribly friendly manner.
However, this tense meeting had a beautiful outcome: it was the first time Paolo met Claudio's daughter. They began dating, fell in love, and later married. At their wedding, the two fathers, Rolando and Claudio, put their differences aside and made peace. With the families united, the Febos began farming the land, and the vineyard has since been known as the "Rolland" vineyard due to its proximity to Rolando’s usual route to and from his vineyards and olive groves to work.
The family's connection to this land through the Rolland wine is profound, especially now. Nonno Rolando passed away in 2016, and sadly his son Paolo joined him in September of 2025. Both men were instrumental in carrying on the family's agricultural traditions, and their presence and passions have been forever memoralized through the Rolland pecorino wine.
Winemaker Davide Febo, holding a bottle of Rolland.
The “Vero” Inspiration for the Rolland Name
To add another twist to the Rolland story, we were intricate to this wine getting to market.
How is that so?
You see our founder, Sheila Donohue, first met Davide Febo right after his grandfather, Rolando, passed away. Davide had been studying law at the University of Bologna and decided to quit law and go back to Abruzzo to tend to the vineyards, olive tree groves and to make wine, following in his grandfather’s footsteps. Being that Sheila lives in Bologna, they had a number of people in common that they knew, and they continued to keep in touch. Davide had not yet released had his own vintages of wines until 2020. And then, you all know what happened: the pandemic hit. It was nearly impossible to find new clients during the lockdowns.
Fortunately, Sheila had already made contact with Davide, so when Davide was finally ready for his first commercial release in early 2021, he reached out, making us, Vero, one of the Febo family winery’s first clients.
When sending over those first samples to Sheila in Bologna, Davide decided included an extra unlabeled bottle of his pecorino wine that he wasn't really planning on bottling commercially. Sheila tasted it, and after discussions with mentor and Pecorino enthusiast Helen Gallo Bryan, they both decided it was a totally unique take on the grape, one that was far superior to the usual cheap versions flooding the market. Sheila knew it had to be imported.
In order to make the shipping deadlines, Davide quickly designed a new label for it and sent it to Sheila. Sheila looked at the front label one morning and saw that there nothing written on it, other than “Famiglia Febo”, the winery’s name. Sheila called up Davide to explain the problem: the wine needed a name. Davide said that after meeting with his family at lunch time, he will have an answer in the afternoon. Sure enough. following the family lunch, he got back to Sheila with the name Rolland, in honor of his beloved grandfather Rolando.
Tasting the Rolland Wine
Febo’s Rolland Pecorino is a testament to that historic single-vineyard planted in the near Spoltore. The vines use a different training system from other Febo vineyards, i.e. not the traditional Pergola Abruzzese. This is necessary due to the higher humidity in this particular area. The wine, and all of Febo’s wines, are crafted using biodynamic, organic, and regenerative practices, fermented with native yeasts in the iconic red and white cement tanks that Davide’s grandmother, Nonna Yolanda, secretly purchased with her market earnings decades ago and painted red and white herself.
In general, the wine tends towards a deep yellow-gold color, despite not relying on skin contact. This is just the unique climate, soil, and terroir shining through in the glass. It has a full, round mouthfeel and is very well structred and balanced. Flavors are intense, sweet fruits and spices with a long, long finish. We love to pair this wine with traditional Abruzzo dishes like Pallotte Cacio e Uova (vegetarian meatballs), Scripelle ‘Mbusse (crepes served in broth), and Timballo (a local version of a blend of lasagna and timpano).
Davide Febo, with his parents who met thanks to the Rolland vineyard.
In an unusual move, we decided to import both the 2022 and 2023 vintages of Rolland to showcase the incredible versatility and age-worthiness of this single-vineyard Pecorino. These two vintages represent two distinct personalities, and are beautiful each in their own way and differences representing their vintage variations.
The 2022 Vintage
Sweetness and Approachability: The 2022 Rolland is the product of a particularly hot and dry growing season that caused the fermentation to stop early, as is the case, like all of Febo’s wines, which are made with native yeast fermentation, aka a natural wine. This resulted in a version of this Pecorino wine which, despite its structure, has an intriguing taste of glazed orange peels, and a silky mouthfeel. It offers an immediate and smooth approach, showcasing amazing flavors of peach and cantaloupe, complemented by notes of orange marmalade, golden raisins, and a nutty hint of peanuts. The texture is silky, akin to peach nectar, and it is locally served with dessert in Abruzzese restaurants thanks to that touch of residual sugar.
The 2023 Vintage
Complexity and Savory Depth: In contrast, the 2023 Rolland is a drier, more savory, and complex wine. This vintage offers a more tactile sensation, leaning into flavors of golden raisin and saffron, evolving into deeper sensations of rich caramel and sage. It features a pronounced orange rind on the finish and wraps up with a long, distinctive mineral finish, summarizing the age-worthiness of the Pecorino grape.
Try a Pecorino Wine for Yourself
The pecorino grape is a masterpiece of balance: it has the power, color, and depth of a full-bodied white, yet maintains the electric, cleansing acidity needed to pair with food. Febo's Rolland is more than just a wine; it is a direct line to the heart of Abruzzo, telling the true story of its people, their land, and a family’s enduring love.
To try not only the Rolland Pecorino wine, but also all of the Febo wines and extra virgin olive oil, check out our our carefully curated portfolio of small production wines and olive oils that we sell to both businesses and consumers across the US:
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