Crackle, crunch, boom – are the sounds invoked by the name of this rare Friulian red grape, named for a verb that means to burst or crackle. When a wine grape takes on an onomatopoeic name with such “explosive” significance, we expect big things. Our new-found love of this re-discovered grape is surrounded by excitement and a bit in intrigue. Schioppettino is a story of tradition, guts, and a bit of drama that follows the heights, then decline of this “outlaw” grape, and its lively re-emergence thanks to the passion of loyal locals.

Meet Schioppettino [ski’OH--pet--TEE--noh], the elegant, perfumed floral yet peppery-savory red wine with character, brought back from the brink of extinction just forty years ago. Ian D’Agata, expert (some say guru) of the 377 indigenous Italian grapes historically grown across the peninsula writes, “Simply put, it’s one of my favorite wines of all.” He also declares Schioppettino “one of Italy’s most noble grapes, and its wines can be truly unforgettable.” These are big claims for a wine you may not have heard of it yet. Maybe it’s time to say hello.

Where Do We Set Our Scene?

The springtime vineyards of **Vigna Petrussa** in Prepotto where they craft four different Schioppettino based wines.

Let’s take an imaginary flight over to Italy. We’ll head to the northeastern corner of the boot, to the beautifully cool Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, a region tucked at the base of the Julian Alps between Austria to the north, Slovenia to the east, and the rest of the Italian peninsula. At the confluence of cool Alpine air and warm Adriatic Sea breezes, it’s a premier growing region producing spectacular wines from cool climate grapes.

Often shortened to “Friuli,” the region made a name for itself in the 1960s for its single varietal wines of aromatic purity and complexity from both international grapes and a fascinating array of nearly unknown varieties of high character indigenous to the region, including Picolit, Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Refosco to name a few.

Our Schioppettino story is set on the eastern edge of Friuli, near Italy’s border with Slovenia. There we find the village of Prepotto. It lies within the hilly Friuli Colli Orientali production zone (translated to the Eastern Hills of Friuli), considered one of the finest winegrowing regions of Fruili, known for its sandstone and calcareous marl soils and for producing exceptional aromatic whites, expressive, structured reds, and historic traditional sweet wines.

Schioppettino is a medium-bodied, elegant high acid red wine bursting with blue-berried fruits and aromas of green peppercorn often accompanied by floral perfume. It is naturally high in Rotundone, the same compound found in black and green peppercorn. In fact, recent studies show that it has one of the highest levels of Rotundone of any grape, along with Syrah (which may be why some compare Schioppettino wines to great reds of the Rhône wine region in France).

Prepotto

There’s a reason Prepotto is one of only two authorized sub-zones for Schioppettino in the Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (the other is Cialla). Tucked against the border with Slovenia, it lies in a narrow valley surrounded by protective woodland hills that create a sort of temperate amphitheater, resulting in a unique microclimate that contributes to the wine’s character. Diurnal temperature swings promote daytime ripening while maintaining the grape’s natural fresh acidity.

We find the vineyards of Vigna Petrussa Winery here, near Albana and Prepotto. The vines grow on the famed “Ponca” soils, local dialect for Flysch - chalky clay marls with sandstone, prized for contributing texture, concentration, and acidity to wines. Ian D’Agata suggests, “These are the soils that give the wines with the most striking note of Rotundone and noteworthy refinement.” Continual ventilation through this valley dries the grapes from the rains common in the area, reducing disease pressure and allowing the winery to follow organic farming methods and earn sustainability certifications.

History: Past-Perfected

Recorded mentions of Schioppettino date back to the mid 13th century. Also known as Ribolla Nera in the rest of the region (no relation to Gialla), Schioppettino was the name given to the most sought-after wines produced from the Ribolla Nera grape – those grown in the hills surrounding the small village of Prepotto. It is hypothesized that Schioppettino’s onomatopoeic name derives from “Scoppiettare,” a verb in eastern Friulian dialect meaning to burst or crackle. It may have been inspired by the explosive pop in the mouth when biting into the grape’s thick tough skins. Or it may refer to the routine explosion of unfiltered wines bottled too early – the residual sugar causing unanticipated pressure to build up under the corks. Both are equally plausible hypotheses and have their own proponents.

Although a 1907 document recommended Schioppettino as the best vine to re-plant in Prepotto after Phylloxera wiped out vineyards, and another in 1912 names Schioppettino the most widely planted vine in the region, it had fallen into near oblivion around Prepotto by the 1960s. Two world wars that called farmers to the front left vineyards abandoned. When it was time to replant yet again, post-war growers followed the fascination at the time for the wildly popular and easy-to-grow international varieties (Merlot, Cabernet). Many of the delicate, obscure native varieties didn’t stand a chance.

Hilde Petrussa (right) with her daughter Francesca (left) in front of the generational family winery, Vigna Petrussa. Hilde was a crucial part of the concentrated effort to save the schioppettino grape.

Fight for the Grape

The result – not even forty years ago our protagonist, Schioppettino was at risk of extinction. By the 1970’s, only scattered vines could be found in the Prepotto area. At one count, only 70 vines existed, not enough to make a single variety bottling at any location. To add insult, and a trigger that caused a revolt, in 1976 the local government of Prepotto banned its planting and vinification into wine (and if you tried, you were commanded to pull the vines or face a hefty fine). You see, Schioppettino had never been registered on the list of officially recognized (legal) varieties allowed to be planted in the area around the village, and it had become nearly unknown in other parts of Friuli and Italy. Without this recognition, it was an outlaw.

The locals rebelled. This was their local grape, a grape of their families, of heritage and tradition, once known as the Schioppettino of Ribolla Nera – the one from Prepotto, the Cru area of the grape. A year later, in 1977 a “Save Schioppetino” campaign was launched. A special session of the town council was convened, and with the help of the mayor also convinced of the cause, the ban was repealed. Two years later, the grape was not only finally included on the list of authorized wines, but also listed as a recommended grape for the province of Udine.

Enter Hilde Petrussa

Hilde Petrussa, second generation woman winegrower and producer from Prepotto was part of this charge and passionate about giving Schioppettino and the wines from her region an identity, to continue the legacy of these great wines into the future. Hilde was instrumental in establishing the Association of Schioppettino Producers of Prepotto. She was named their first president and was joined by 38 other producers with the goal of raising the prestige of the grape and wine produced from their village. Under Hilde’s stewardship, the next couple decades were dedicated to researching and studying vine growing methods and winemaking techniques best suited to growing the delicate grape, making the highest quality versions of Schioppettino wine, and working passionately to promote Prepotto as the classic region for Schioppettino within Friuli and across Italy.

Hilde’s hard work and passion paid off – After many years of hard work, petitions, and singing its praises, the Prepotto region re-gained its Cru status (site of excellence) when in 2008 it was granted official sub-zone status for Schioppettino under the Friuli Colli Orientalli DOC.

Challenge with Payoff

Today Schioppettino is grown across Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, with 90% found in Collio Orientali. But you won’t find much of it outside of Friuli. The grape is delicate and doesn’t travel well. In fact, looking at the grape, you’d wonder how it can possibly produce such high-quality wine. Well, it takes intelligence, craft, and patience. These grapes don’t ripen easily. Schioppettino naturally produces heavy, large bunches with two big wings and full, round berries hanging from thin breakable stems. It is sensitive to the cold rainy springs common in the area which risk Coulure (hazard of not flowering during growing season), and being a late ripener, it’s susceptible to Downy Mildew in years when autumn rains come early. If that weren’t enough, the delicate skins can sunburn easily, wiping out its delicate aromatics, including those peppery notes. So, it takes patience, intelligence, and craft to make the greatest wines from this grape. Hilde Petrussa has all that in spades.

Hilde knows that for Schioppettino to reach its potential, the farmer must visit the vines multiple times through the season. If left unmanaged, the vine will produce 4-5 kilos of fruit, which is too much. To make quality wine, Hilde targets 1.5 kilos per vine. It takes several passes in the vineyard to reduce its abundance. In the spring, she starts by thinning buds to combat the natural vigor. As the remaining bunches grow large, she then reduces their size by dropping the wings and cutting the bottom “tail” from the bunches, effectively concentrating the vine’s energy and flavor to fewer berries.

In early August when the hot sun can burn tender skins, she assures there are plenty of leaves shading the berries. But closer to harvest, those same berries need sun to ripen the phenolics; thus, another pass through the vineyards to open the vines for sun and airflow.

What is the payoff for all this hard work? Love of tradition and heritage, and for a wine we can all love. Ian D’Agata recounts that in the many tastings he leads of reds from Friuli - “It cannot be an accident or sheer luck that schioppettino is always the wine that people like best.”

In the Winery

Hilde carries the flag of Schioppettino from the vineyard into the winery. She led her local colleagues to experiment in the winery to find the best methods for crafting premiere Schioppettino wine. With those findings, they established the standards that must be met to earn the label “… di Prepotto DOC.” Over the years, they helped her collect wild native yeasts from their vineyards and wineries. Hilde researched and nurtured the yeasts until she was satisfied she had an indiginous strain that captures the unique native terroir for the Schioppettino wines of Prepotto.

The Wines of Vigna Petrussa

Hilde’s passion drives her curiosity. Vigna Petrussa is the only winery in the area to produce four completely different styles of Schioppettino. When asked what sparks her love of Schioppettino, you realize it’s personal; it’s a passion project. Memories of her father’s homemade small lots of lightly sweet Schioppettino that he held so dear he would only open small bottles on special occasions with his best friends. He allowed Hilde a few sips. That memory has held dear and bright. According to Hilde’s daughter Francesca, it’s a memory that can stir her mother’s emotions, bringing a tear to her eye.

Today, the winemaker who spent her career championing the re-birth of the grape says she likes to explore all styles Schioppettino can offer. She is passionate about the grape’s versatility and makes Schioppetinos in various styles from diverse winemaking methods. The Vigna Petrussa portfolio includes: an unoaked IGT that showcases the grape, a Schioppettino di Prepotto DOC, a Riserva, and a wine following the historic tradition of slightly sweet wine from passito grapes.

Schioppettino, Venezia Giulia IGT (aka RiNera)

This wine labelled simply “Schioppettino,” will soon come with the proprietary name “RiNera,” a shortened, playful take on the grape name “Ribolla Nera.” This wine showcases the varietal character of the grape itself. Fermented 100% in stainless steel tanks for 10-12 days (with no touch of the wood required for the DOC), it takes IGT status of Venezia-Giulia.

The wine is fresh and lively with lovely notes of blue flowers and those green peppercorns. The palate is light and quenchable, opening with flavors of raspberry that lead to darker fruits and pepper on the finish.

Appetizers, white meats, guanciale (pork cheeks), light pasta dishes, pork dumplings and pizza margherita are fabulous with this wine. Try with your favorite bloomed cheeses. It’s also a delicious sipper while you are preparing these dishes!

Schioppettino di Prepotto, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia DOC

This wine achieves the DOC label, with, of course, the special cru status of “di Prepotto.” It is fermented in wood with native yeasts. The wine is then passed to large Botti for 24-30 months aging, followed by a year of bottle elevage.

This wine has a more vinous character to the nose. Intoxicating notes of a barrel room swirl with ruby fruits, pepper, and hints of balsamic. This wine has an inviting silky palate with extra body, carrying flavors of red and blue berries and cracked pepper.

Wonderful with a wide array of your favorite pastas and main dishes, braised meats, and sausages. Try with slow cooked tomato-meat sauces.

Hand Selections

Hilde’s Vigna Petrussa produces the above two wines every year. But the following two are produced only in the very best years (on average, every 2-3 vintages). They are Special Selection wines and are truly hand selected.

In warm dry years when autumn rains are delayed, low risk of fungal pressures, and the grapes look to achieve optimal ripeness, Hilde declares it a year for the Riserva and Perla Nera, her ‘appassimento’ (air drying) passion project. In these years, Vigna Petrussa performs a “triple harvest.” That’s right – at least three harvest passes in the vineyard. The very best blocks are reserved for these two wines, and the best berries picked by hand into small bins. The first harvest pass (4-5 days before the other wines) goes to La Perla. Two to three days later, the second pass is for grapes destined for the Riserva. Then a couple days later, the remaining bunches and grapes are harvested for the DOC and RiNera.

Schioppettino di Prepotto RISERVA, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia DOC

The Riserva is a selection of the best grapes and only produced in optimal years. The wines are also fermented in wood with indigenous yeast, but are aged this time in smaller Tonneaux for 30 months to three years ,followed by a year elevage in bottle.

Expect even more flavor impact with more evolved fruit, a richer palate, and flavors of black pepper and plum.

The wine has so much flavor impact, serve it with simple meats such as your very best Fiorentina, ribeye steaks and other robust grilled meats. The smoke and grill flavors will marry perfectly with the wine’s oak notes and play off the fatty richness of the meat.

La Perla Nera, Venezia Giulia IGT

This is closest to how Schioppettino wines were made for centuries in the area. It is a modern-day nod to the wines Hilde’s father made and reserved for special occasions.

Fermented from 100% appassimento (dried) Schioppettino grapes for a wine that is rich on the palate with a hint of sweetness. Made only in optimal years from the very best vines and least compact bunches, individual grapes are hand-selected into small bins, harvested a few days earlier than for the other wines. The grapes are picked a little firmer and allowed to dry on wooden racks in the “fruttaio” (drying room) for two months where the sugars increase and the flavors and richness concentrate. The dried grapes are fermented into wine then transferred to Barrique and Tonneaux where it is aged for 2-3 years.

A concentrated, beautiful, deep ruby wine, Perla Nera smells of rich blackberry syrup and violets. The wine enters like satin and broadens coolly across the palate but is not heavy. Rich with deep concentrated fruit, but still alive with acidity, it’s a special alternative to an Amarone or ruby Port.

Enjoy with duck and other rich sweet meats like wild boar pasta. Or end the meal as delicious sips out of your favorite glass, or enjoy with pieces of medium-dark chocolate.

The Story Continues

Schioppettino from the Prepotto zone is truly a niche wine, with only 140 hectares planted in the entire Prepotto area today.

The once “outlaw grape” with the explosive name and complex perfumed-savory aromas continues to gain fans. Schioppettino is making itself known in restaurants and fine wine shops across the US, thanks to its inherent charm, and the craft, passion, and pride of some loyal locals who fought for its existence. So, when you see the very long name Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino di Prepotto DOC, remember the heart and soul and guts it took to preserve the heritage of this crackling jewel.

This article is written by Mary Beth Vierra, founder of Crush Course. She’s a Certified Wine Educator and Italian Wine Scholar.

Meet Schioppettino: An Outlaw Grape