Real Lives of Women Winemakers
We had the opportunity to sit down and chat with Francesca Mecchia, who is the daughter of second generation woman winemaker Hilde Petrussa, owner of Vigna Petrussa estate winery in Friuli, the extreme North East of Italy.
Vigna Petrussa’s first generation Pina pictured with second generation, Hilde, and her sister at the estate winery in Friuli.
You may recall, Francesca’s mother, Hilde’s, story, which we shared in this previous blog article; Hilde made a decision mid-life to switch from teaching to the wine business to help her mother, Giuseppina, affectionately known as Pina. Pina started the estate winery, Vigna Petrussa, after she took over as vigneron from her husband who passed away at a young age in 1975. Then, in 1995, Hilde took charge of Vigna Petrussa.
Francesca, who is an architect by profession, has mainly been on the sidelines until most recently where she is officially becoming part of the winery, alongside her mom Hilde, so becoming the third generation of women behind Vigna Petrussa.
We were curious to know what made her decide to make this career and life change.
Let’s start with the first generation, Pina
Q: Francesca, what was your grandmother like?
Francesca ‘at home’ in the Vigna Petrussa barrel room.
A: ‘My grandmother was small in stature but a strong, ‘no nonsense’ woman. I remember her as being a really hard worker and, let’s say, not your typical ‘Italian grandmother’ who would dote over her grandchild - she was a tough cookie. But, her behavior was understandable - she had a life that she did not choose. For example, her husband, my grandfather, died at a young age, so she was left to care for the family farm and raise 2 daughters by herself. She was often alone among men in her work which left her having to prove herself all the time; this was an ongoing personal battle she had.’
Q: Did you participate in your grandmother’s winery activities as a young child?
A: ‘Yes, in fact every weekend we would go up from Veneto where I grew up, to Friuli to help ‘nonna’ (my grandmother) with the winery. The best memories were during harvest time where there was a joyous atmosphere, among the hard work it involved. I would help with the harvest, picking grapes. Nonna taught me how to select grapes, how to cut them and lay them down in the basket. The best part of the harvest was at the end when a large communal table would be placed in the vineyard to eat together and celebrate the harvest. It was a great atmosphere.’
Fruili in her DNA
Q: Francesca, you grew up in Veneto, then lived in Florence then Spain and London and now Milan. How does the ‘Friulian’ side of you come out, despite never having lived in Friuli?
A: The Friulian part of me has given me a strong work ethic, both a need to work and to work hard, not to waste time. This characteristic can be in contrast to the image you often come across in Italy of women having a life of leisure. This is not the case with women from Friuli. Then another part of my character which is influenced by my Friulian heritage is my strong sense of independence. This character trait fits in with the lifestyle of a vigneron where you have to spend a lot of time alone in the vineyard.
Making the Leap into Wine
Q: What inspired you to change careers from being an architect and enter the wine business with your mother?
A: I’m a woman with children who has had to re-enter into the workforce recently. So, I’ve had to recently evaluate my career options considering what I enjoy doing and what I’ve felt drawn towards doing. I love creating things, like in my work as an architect. I saw the opportunity to create and make an impact by joining forces in running the winery with my mom. Mom and I complement one another. I bring to the table my international experience, skills and travels to grow and enhance our family business. I keep my eyes and ears open to market opportunities and to understand what international markets are seeking. Given this, I am working with my mom to transform our branding to demonstrate that we are a boutique winery. For example, we are redesigning our labels to give a ‘face-lift’ to our brand. I am also working with my mom to review our costs and business plan.
But, ultimately, what is fueling my decision is my passion for wine and family. My decision to join the family winery with my mom completes the circle of solidarity, giving continuity to what my grandmother started.
Q: What’s the next steps in your involvement with the winery?
A: I’m getting involved with the wine production, such as working closely with our enologist consultant to better understand trends in wine and to taste other wines, so we get a better understanding of the market. I also pushed for us to pursue a certificate of sustainability which demonstrates our commitment to the environment and making products with minimal intervention. (Since it rains a lot, mold forms easily, and the schioppettino vines do not respond favorably to the substances that organic farming requires in order to treat vines.)
Francesca with her mom, Hilde, in their Picolit vineyard, and one of Francesca’s favorite wines!
Q: If you had to pick your favorites of your wines, which would they be?
A: First, Richenza, my mom’s creation, a white wine blend of varieties from Friuli. I find it elegant, classy with such a long finish that the complexity expands the longer you taste it. My favorite red is Refosco, since it is round and also with a complex finish. Last but not least is Picolit, a dessert wine made from the Picolit grape native to the ‘Colli Orientali del Friuli’ or eastern hills of Friuli. It brings me back memories of when I would sneak into the barrel room as a kid and barrel taste some of the Picolit aging in oak.
Could this be the 4th generation of Vigna Petrussa? No pressure ;)
Then, while interviewing Francesca, the potential fourth generation, her 11 year old son Giacomo, was with us, and we had a chance to sneak in a question to him, asking if he has ever helped with the harvest of your mom and grandmother’s winery. ‘Not yet’ was the answer, but he has helped with bottling which he enjoyed. As in traditional Italian style, children sometimes get sips of wine, so we asked which is his favorite of his mom and grandmother’s wine, and, low and behold, like mother like son, his favorite also is Richenza! According to Francesca he has a ‘buon naso’, meaning he’s good at ‘sniffing them out’ and has growing curiosity about wine.
Is Your Curiosity also Peaked?
This Richenza white wine blend that is one of Francesca’s favorites is one of the ‘new’ Vigna Petrussa products that we just imported into the US. This wine repeatedly wins awards and 90+ ratings, with the latest being the Slow Wine 2022 award which recognizes the top wines in Italy.
Her other 2 favorites, Refosco Red Wine, and Picolit, also have 90+ ratings, with the Picolit garnering 95 points, and also have favorable reviews from our customers.
Some other Vigna Petrussa wines which are making their debut to the US market are:
their Sauvignon Blanc, which has been likened to an elegant Loire Valley style,
Vigna Petrussa’s unoaked Schioppettino, also called RiNera, taken from the word Ribolla Nera, another name for schioppettino red grape. This wine was recently cited as one of Italy’s Best Buy Wines in 2021 by Ian D’agata,
Hilde’s Perla Nera made from 100% air dried schioppettino grape, like how Amarone is made just with a different grape. It’s a real treat, also great with chocolate and was rated 93 points by Ian D’agata.
We also just imported in new vintages of other Vigna Petrussa products, such as their Friulano White Wine which garnered 92 points both by wine critic Michael Apstein and by Wine Pleasures which picks the 50 Best White Wines in the World.
Do you Want to Meet Francesca and Hilde?
Hear from them first hand at our next VeroTalk, free virtual wine tasting and class and we discover Schioppettino, the red wine grape which Hilde Petrussa helped put on the map. It’s Jan. 31st at 3pm ET / noon PT and certified wine educator Mary Beth Vierra will be leading our discovery.
Register on Zoom and buy the Schioppettino Starter Set to taste along!
Taste Francesca’s Favorite Wines
Get the Wines We’ll be Tasting at the Schioppettino VeroTalk with Francesca and Hilde
