Take a Walk on the Wild Side of Tuscany
What comes to mind when you picture Tuscany? Is it the postcard image of manicured rolling hills with lines of tall Cypress trees? That is the Tuscany we have all been sold and a vision that many of our brains conjure up. We want to introduce you to a wilder, more rebellious side of Tuscany: Maremma, the Wild West of Tuscany, with crystal clear seas and long beaches, mountains covered with dense forests, hot springs, and windy, dry hills.
In fact at our recent VeroTalk, Antonella Manuli talked about how she was drawn to start a natural wine farm, La Maliosa in Maremma because it is so wild and largely untouched by modern tourism. This southern-most part of Tuscany is less-discovered but ripe for discovery. Join us in this article as we take a journey into Maremma.
Discover Maremma
The Maremma is a 2000 square mile area making up the south-western corner of Tuscany, and a small part of northern Lazio region. (Fun fact: the Maremma sheep dog originates from Central Italy, including Maremma, hence the origin of the name.)
Here is an Etruscan ‘neighborhood’ going back to 8th century BC in Populonia, the archeological park along the Mediterreanean in Maremma, Tuscany.
Etruscans first occupied the area. Evidence of their occupation remains today in the well-preserved cities of Populonia and Roselle. In fact, when you go visit Populonia the Etruscan ruins are so well preserved you can easily imagine what their villages were like over 2500 years ago. The Romans then reined for years in the area, followed by the rule of the powerful Adlobrandeschi noble family during the Middle Ages. They left reminders of their occupation in the form of high towers, castles, and fortified villages. Then the Medici, specifically their predecessors, the Lorraine, ruled as evidenced by the Medici walls of Grosseto. The Medici were the ones to begin the transformation of large parts of the Maremma coastal area, which until then had been swampy marshland known for Malaria. Another traditional resident of the Maremma was the Butteri, mounted cattle herders.
The village closest to La Maliosa farm and winery is Pitigliano. Here it is, perched on the Tuff cliffs of Maremma at dusk.
The large area of the Maremma makes up a quarter of the region of Tuscany. In the Divine Comedy, Dante defined the borders of the Maremma between the Cecina River and Tarquinia in the northern part of Lazio, and the definition still stands today. The immense and diverse area can be further divided into Upper Maremma, the Maremma Grossetana, and the Lower Maremma. Let’s look closer at these three areas and what makes them distinct:
Upper Maremma
Located between the Cecina River and the Gulf of Follonica, the area is rich in minerals that have been mined since the Archaic period. Etruscans founded many cities in the area, including the Gavorrano, Montieri, and Monterotondo, creating a robust commercial network. Many suggestive towns marked by castles, fortresses with watchtowers, and churches were constructed in the medieval period. The most remarkable of these is Massa Marittima, a beautiful medieval city with an impressive cathedral.
Maremma Grossetana
One of the Via Cave, ancient roads worn deep in the Tuff by millennia of use (some still in use today by farmers), that runs between various villages in the Maremma area, including Pitigliano, where La Maliosa farm and winery is based.
This central part of the Maremma is located around Grosseto, the biggest city in the Maremma. This city's occupation by various groups over time is evident in the diverse architecture, including the Duomo, the Medici Walls encompassing the historical center, and the Senese bridge house. The Etruscan's presence in the area can be witnessed in the well-preserved city of Roselle, just eight miles from Grosseto. Outside of Grosseto, the area can be further divided into the coastal and inland parts. The coastal area is marked by long sandy beaches, small coves often only accessible by foot or boat, and small coastal towns, like the charming Castiglione della Pescaia. The inland area stretches across fertile plains to the slopes of Mount Amiata, a now dormant volcano.
Lower Maremma
The southern-most part of the Maremma, which reaches northern Lazio, is most representative of the Maremma and is the area where you will find La Maliosa farm and winery. The coastal zone includes the Costa d'Argento natural park, a wild and untamed area where flamingos and wild boar roam, and there are large swathes of undeveloped, sandy beaches. Monte Argentario, a peninsula jutting into the water, this craggy mountain is surrounded by cool, crystal-clear waters and the two delicious seaside towns make for the perfect place for an aperitif or a seafood meal. Inland, the area is known for its tuff stone, strong Etruscan and Roman roots, and its world-famous hot springs.
Find out what drew the founder of La Maliosa winery to situate it in Maremma in our previous article about her life story, Maremma and her ‘startup’ farm making natural wine and organic extra virgin olive oil. Visiting the property takes you into the heart of the Maremma countryside where you’ll see the panoramic vineyards perched on top of a breezy hill with 360° views of the Maremma. At La Maliosa, there are also opportunities for horseback rides, e-bike excursions, and to sleep, literally, under the stars in La Maliosa’s Starsbox.
Exploring the Area Around La Maliosa
Maremma’s landscape is wild with nature dominating the landscapes, as Antonella Manuli, founder of La Maliosa farm and winery is showing us here in one of her vineyards.
Surrounding the farm are the towns of Saturnia, Pitigliano, and Montemerano. Each is unique and worth visiting.
Saturnia is famed for its thermal hot springs. The area and its healing waters were known in the Etruscan times but became a destination during the Roman times when they built villas and buildings for the therapeutic exploitation of the springs. In the town of Saturnia, many remnants of the Roman time are still visible, including in the main piazza, where outlines in the pavement indicate were Roman villas once stood. Many legends arose about Saturnia in the Middle Ages due to its warm waters and vapors that often linger in the air. It was said that the devil came out of here when he left the underworld. Records from that time recall conferences of wizards and witches, spells, and sabbatical rites. Today, the hot springs are known worldwide, and their healing properties have been studied and documented by renowned Italian universities.
There are two options to visit the springs: the wild and free baths or the maintained and manicured thermal park. The free pools are known as the Cascata del Mulino, the mill waterfall. Here the water, which maintains a pleasant 37-degrees year-round, flows along a natural stream before cascading down a small limestone hill next to an old mill, and into small, natural pools. These natural pools are free to enter and are always open. They are especially wonderful to experience at sunrise and sunset. There are no facilities (bathrooms or changing rooms), so it is essential to come prepared with your bathing suit already on, sandals to easily slip on and off when entering and exiting the pools, a towel, and even a robe is suggested. Alternatively, the Thermal Park offers manicured grounds with manufactured pools for experiencing the thermal baths while also having access to amenities. The Thermal Park is part of the Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, which makes for a nice place to stay, however, the thermal park can be accessed with a day pass without being a hotel guest.
Montemerano is a quaint medieval borgo and has been named one of the most beautiful Borghi in Italy. It is excellent for a stroll to admire the classic Medieval architecture and the sweeping views. For a refreshing stop, take a seat at the small tables of La Grada in Castello, and enjoy one of the artisan beers they produce, or a glass of local wine along with a tagliere (charcuterie board) with local cured meats and cheeses.
Pitigliano is a picturesque town that appears to be emerging from the Tuff stone it is built upon. The city is beautiful during the day and spectacular at night when it is lit up and appears to be floating above the dark valley that surrounds it. The town holds a rich and fascinating history. It dates back to the Etruscan times when they built the Vie Cave, ancient roads excavated by hand in the Tuff rock, used as a way of communication and defense and to connect the first villages with the Necropolis, the Cities of the Dead. It is still possible to hike along with the Vie Cave and visit the Necropolis. Commonly called Little Jerusalem, Pitigliano had a large Jewish community in the 16th century that constructed a Jewish Ghetto, still visitable today. It includes a synagogue, bakery, kosher butcher, wine cellar, and ritual baths. While you are in Pitigliano, don’t miss trying the traditional Jewish cookie, Sfratti, shaped like a cigar. They are stuffed with a filling of chopped walnuts, honey, spices, and orange peel and covered with a thin shell of unleavened dough. Additionally, in Pitigliano, there are various exciting churches and museums to visit, along with the Medici Aqueduct.
Maremma Cuisine
The Maremma cuisine is a classic example of the Cucina Povera. The dishes are simple, seasonal, and rely on local ingredients. Acquacotta, meaning cooked water, is the most representative dish of the Maremma. The soup’s main ingredients are water, onions, and bread. Nowadays, it is often enhanced by adding tomatoes, eggs, and cheese. Like so many recipes in Italy, each family has their recipe which has been tinkered and made perfect over generations by the mamme (moms) and the nonne (grandmas). Our version of the recipe is here which pair great with La Maliosa’s olive oils and natural wines.
Other typical products and recipes from the region include cured meats from local pigs and cheese made from the flocks of sheep which you undoubtedly pass while making your way through the winding roads of the Maremma countryside. Game meat, especially wild boar, is popular in this rugged part of Tuscany. It often appears on menus in the form of ragù paired with wide Pappardelle pasta or stewed with wine and tomatoes and served as a second course. Tortelli Maremmani, large silky square ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach, served with ragù or butter and sage are another popular first course. Other typical products include seafood along the coast, chestnuts, mushrooms and truffles, saffron, honey, and olive oil. The latter is produced in abundance in the area where the hills and fields of the inland area are often dotted with olive trees. We import and sell La Maliosa’s award-winning organic extra virgin olive oil from Maremma. If you would also like to try the honey they make, contact us and we’ll work on getting it imported for you!
Wines from Maremma
An indigenous old vine procanico in onr of La Maliosa’s vineyards, used to make their organic and natural orange wine, Saturnia Bianco.
The wines in the Maremma area are some of the most diverse in Tuscany. Sangiovese is still a dominant grape in Maremma, as in other parts of Tuscany, but in this unique area there is a great diversity of other native grapes grown including, Ciliegiolo, Cannonau Gris (like Grenache Gris), Trebbiano, Canaiolo nero, Alicante, Pugnitello, Aleatico, Vermentino, Ansonica, Malvasia, and Grechetto. In more recent years, thanks to the popularity of Super Tuscans, international varieties including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Petit Verdot were also introduced. This great variety makes the wine tasting in the area very fun! For a taste of Maremma at home, make sure to try La Maliosa’s natural wines and extra virgin olive oils from Maremma.
The farm is organic and biodynamic, and Antonella Manuli, the owner and winemaker, produces natural wines that capture the wild uniqueness of Maremma in the bottle. For a funky orange wine, try their Saturnia Bianco, a blend made with the local Procanico grape. It has bold tannins and pairs nicely with cheeses, fatty fish, and creamy desserts, or for an easy-drinking red wine great for an aperitif or chilled in the summer and served with fish try their Saturnia Rosso.
What Are You Waiting For?
This wild area is ripe to be discovered, from the land, sights and people, to its wine and food. Maremma allows you to live a part of Tuscany that has remained largely unchanged over the centuries.
While you are planning your trip to discover this unique area, begin tasting the land with natural and organic wines and EVOOs from La Maliosa in Maremma, available for all to purchase, distributors, wine stores, restaurants as well as consumers in our online shop.
If you would like help planning your trip to the Maremma, Alex Smookler of Alex Smookler Travel would be happy to assist. She plans tailor-made trips to help curious travelers discover lesser-known parts of Italy. You can get in touch here: alexsmooklertravel.com/contact.